$14.95 a month after 30 days. We use cookies and similar tools to enhance your shopping experience, to provide our services, understand how customers use our services so we can make improvements, and display ads. Really? I bought this for my dad (a keen surfer) and he was instantly enthralled! He is a formidable writer, and even if you've never been surfing this tale of searching for meaning in life will still grab your attention. There was a strange, philosophical graffito: ALL OUTER PROGRESS PRODUCE CRIMINAL. I knew I was chasing something more than waves. One credit a month to pick any title from our entire premium selection to keep (you’ll use your first credit now). .orange-text-color {font-weight:bold; color: #FE971E;}View high quality images that let you zoom in to take a closer look. Finnegan surfs his way through it, without a single 'dude'. It's a phenomena all life long surfers will understand. An awesome read, very descriptive and insightful. Finnegan skilfully plaits together elements of his working, personal and surfing lives across oceans, continents and decades. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. This book is extremely well written and is sure to please surfers and non-surfers alike, as technical vocabulary is explained perfectly in laymans terms without detracting from the purpose of the book. I am a bit baffled by the glowing reviews, and for that matter the Pulitzer. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. Really? If the Amazon.com.au price decreases between your order time and the end of the day of the release date, you'll receive the lowest price. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Additionally, the author has had an interesting life outside of surfing (reporting in war zones, etc. As appears obvious it is mainly about surfing, the bonds between the surfer and the wave, the bonds between surfers themselves and the way that surfing can basically take over your life. Reviewed in the United Kingdom on January 31, 2017. By completing your purchase, you agree to Audible’s Conditions of Use. He basically does a lot of serious addiction-splanin' with regard to surfing, rather than drawing us into this unusual world. --TIME Magazine, Top 10 Nonfiction Books of 2015. You're listening to a sample of the Audible audio edition. His story was way more dedicated and adventurous making a cracking and intelligent read with humble discernment and insight. This book is extremely well written and is sure to please surfers and non-surfers alike, as technical vocabulary is explained perfectly in laymans terms without detracting from the purpose of the book. Please try your request again later. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. But there's enough vicarious enjoyment, excitement and insight, beautifully expressed and sensitively communicated, to bridge the gaps in direct experience and bring this thoughtful autobiography to life for any reader with imagination. Really? The language is appropriate, articulate and the prose is balanced ( apart from one really bizarre typo where it seems a completely different sentence has been superimposed on another). I bought this for my dad (a keen surfer) and he was instantly enthralled!
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